Cambodia’s troubled history includes one of the most shocking and deplorable episodes in human history. The horrors seem unthinkable, unimaginable, and yet they happened on a massive scale. An estimated 1 to 3 million people died as a result of the Khmer Rogue regime and its policies, either through straight execution, starvation, disease, or being worked to death in slave labor camps. The genocide is also uncomfortably recent; Pol Pot and his band came to power in 1975, Vietnam invaded in 1978, and fighting raged with the Khmer Rogue throughout the 1980s.

Yet perhaps the amazing thing about Cambodia is its ability to endure, survive, and in recent years, thrive. Cambodia is increasingly becoming a very popular tourist destination. The scars of war are evident, but the people seem determined to move on.

Phnom Penh has a vibrant nightlife scene and truly impressive modern hotels. The temple complexes of Siem Reap and the surrounding environs are truly incredible, extremely popular with tourists, and stunningly massive. Angkor Wat is the most famous of these, rumored to be the largest religious structure in the world. The outer wall is over 2 miles long!

The people are also incredibly open and friendly, which is surprising due to Cambodia’s past. The American bombing campaign and brief invasion of Cambodia during the Vietnam War is thought by many to be at least partially responsible for the Khmer Rogue’s rise to power. Yet despite everything that has happened, Cambodia’s people do not seem to hold a grudge against visiting Americans. Perhaps in the wake of such an immense tragedy, the only response possible is to move on. Dwelling on past events, assigning blame, and holding grudges might only serve as a reminder of the living nightmare that was the Killing Fields.

Cambodia can be a slightly difficult country to get around, especially if you are an inexperienced traveler. While it is usually possible to make yourself understood or find someone who speaks English, Cambodia is no Thailand. This is much rawer nation, giving a visitor the ability to experience intense highs and deep lows. Lonely Planet says of the capital city, “Phnom Penh is unique in its capacity to both charm and chill to the bone.” Because of this, tours of Cambodia are becoming increasingly popular for tourists who may want a more structured visit, or are not comfortable leafing it into the bush alone. A particularly popular itinerary is to see the temples at Siem Reap before heading to Tonle Sap Lake. From there many tourists will board a boat on the Mekong and ride it into Vietnam.

Cambodia is truly a unique place. You can see fantastic 12th century temples and vibrant markets, but you can also see rooms filled with thousands of human remains. Just outside of the city of Phnom Penh is Choeung Ek, one of the most notorious killing fields. Nearly 20,000 people were executed here, usually bludgeoned to death because bullets were far too precious a commodity to waste. Some 8,000 human skulls are visible beyond a glass door at the Memorial here. Yet you can exit the Memorial, emotionally drained, to happen across children running around the streets laughing hysterically.? These events were horrifyingly recent. Yet Cambodia continues to grow by leaps and bounds, offering a wealth of unique attractions to the visitor, with truly hospitable hosts. Few places in the world offer such a simultaneous glimpse of both the best and worst man is capable of.

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